Hungchun: a bride stands next to the MG which is parked under the washing

David, Denise and Ian are on the road and on their way to the MG factory at Nanhui. They appeared to have had NO trouble with any of the processes once they met the key MG distributor in Tianjin. Dave’s email below explains what happened after they met this influential person:

We were driven to the Port by Mr MG Tianjin himself in a MG7. He doesn’t speak any English but our interpreter is brilliant so we are able to communicate easily.  He was a VW agent until 2007 when he took on the MG franchise.  Initially they only sold 4 cars a month but now he is the biggest sales outlet in China at around 40 cars a month.  He says that they are still hard to sell as the MG brand is still unknown.  Most of the taxi drivers have not heard of MG either! He sells the MG3, MG3 wagon, the MG6 and MG7 and soon will have the MG Zero for sale. No details of the Zero yet, but similar to the MG3…
 
Anyway, our cars were ready for us to pick-up so we were there for 15 minutes taking photos then headed 1 hour back to the Vehicle Bureau – Mr MG leading proudly in the MG7. They told us to come back first thing in the morning for the Road Worthy inspection as they were about to close, but a quiet word from Mr MG had them rushing us through and waving us on our way. 

To think we took five days, counting the down time over the weekend, to complete the same process but isn’t it great, Dave’s dream is becoming a reality!

The Victorian MGB GT team had a great day. An eight minute cable car ride and a vigorous, three hour climb, for some of us, up thousands of steps at Yellow Mountain and then a 50km drive (yes a SHORT drive!) to Hungchun.  We are staying in a typical Chinese village. The washing hangs from poles, the alleyways are narrow and the irrigation and waterways are something from another period. The food is really authentic, it’s not five star but it is what we came to see and participate in. There are kids, young people and dogs about the place just getting on with life. It looks like, feels like and smells like something you have all seen in those old Chinese picture postcards.  Fantastic.

Nearly two weeks since leaving home and after the initial bureaucratic holdups we are well on our way.  The cars seem to be functioning well despite a few minor issues such as a loose alternator lead and an incorrectly fitted fan belt.  The two air conditioned cars have had trouble with hoses and fittings breaking but these were easily repaired by local tradesmen for a sum which would not get you a look in at home.  I suppose this is what you get for fitting modern equipment to old cars.

We did visit a spare parts supermarket (for want of a better word) in Tianjin looking for more fan belts etc and were amazed to find about 500 plus small businesses in the one area selling every part and or service you could imagine.  Everything in China is grand in scale and this was no exception

A great deal of time and effort has gone into preparing all the cars and we are all hopeful of making it through.  At our initial planning meetings it was agreed that if one car breaks down and it cannot be repaired then the vehicle is retired (?) and the drivers make their way to an airport and fly out.  There is an incentive to get through China as if you leave a car here you forfeit your $5000 bond which had to be paid up front.  I wonder how you would truck a broken down MGB from the middle of Uzbekistan to a seaport. 

You always look on the positive but as you drive along you listen carefully to every signal from the engine and hope all is well.  One thing in our favour is all the members of the trip are resourceful individuals and masters of improvisation.  We are swamped by locals whenever the  bonnet is lifted. I am led to believe there is a nine year crush rule in China so the chances of the locals seeing a 10 year old car is remote.  When they understand what we are doing, the odd Chinese who speaks a little English, replies that we are crazy.

I would apply the term crazy to some of the Chinese drivers.  Due to the novelty of our cars it is quite common for foreign cars to pull along side on the freeway and take pictures.  One driver yesterday had one arm on the wheel and the other out the window taking a video of the procession.  Needless to say he nearly clipped me as he pulled in front to pan his camera.

Maddie has arrived from England, and it seems like our Queensland mates, still in Tianjin, are making great progress (code for no delay), with their plans. Dave’s SMSs have been very upbeat and guess all will be revealed in the fullness of time as Sir Humphrey would say. Looks like Dave will start his dream by driving his car from Naihui. Persistence has paid off it seems. So hopefully Murphy has taken that six month cruise ticket which we ALL chipped in to pay for so he’d get off OUR case.

Good days driving 450 kms to Huang Shan of Yellow Mountain fame. The expressways were  good and then the drive through the mountains, sensational. Massive one kilometre tunnels cut through the mountains, one after the another, makes the Burnley Tunnel look like a pretty lame construction. The infra structure in this country has to be seen (by road of course) to be believed. The landscaped expressways, the multi story housing complexes, the solar energy, the general order about the place is very impressive. Peter and Kerith who were here some twenty five years ago are blown away by the changes they have observed.

Tomorrow we climb the Yellow Mountain, a six thirty start. Apparently a city elder once said of Huangshan and surrounds “there is only one place in this world similar to this Heaven of Peace and that is Switzerland”. Nice symmetry because all going well we will drive through Switzerland. The area is famous for exotic pines, grotesque rocks, clouds, hot springs and snow in winter. The landscape reminds me both of Switzerland and Colorado.

The Dark Lord, whoever he is, has asked for some detail on our daily ritual so here goes. We are getting into the swing of daily driving now. Our accommodation has been four star maybe five complete with room internet access. This could all change as we drive further west as internet access maybe more limited and the blogging might quieten down.  The cars are parked in the hotel car park under the careful watch of hotel security staff. Breakfasts are becoming more exotic with a huge range of food but with limited appeal. Fried rice and dumplings are not very appealing every morning.  Cars are packed and this morning we had to wash them as there had been overnight rain which coated the car with dust. We set off each day with a thermos of tea, our GPS , NAVO’s CB, the iPod and some nibblies. Along the way we pay fairly significant tolls. It is estimated we will spend $600 plus on tolls while driving in China. Queenie tells us that there is 67,000 kms of major highway in China and we will drive on 10,000 kms of it.  Petrol is marginally cheaper than in Australia. The driver Mr Lui always stops for a brief lunch at a petrol station. We give it a miss and have our own eats. Dinner has become pretty predictable with the usual “lazy susan” bearing rice, steamed vegetables and a tasty combinations of meat and chicken. Beer is cheap and very light (2.5%) and for me drinkable as there doesn’t seem to be any wine on offer.

Let’s hope Murphy keeps enjoying his cruise, thousands of kilometres from here  so we can complete the task at hand.

Where are the kids?

Is this wall to keep the rabbits out???

Resting on the Great Wall

To start with they were carried up the Great Wall

You know how Peter Rabbit, Mr Jeremy Fisher and cheeky Benjamin Bunny left the area around the  pond in  Mr Macgregor’s garden to start to explore the big wide world in the hope of finding some new and very special little friends ; well guess what they have  hardly seen any little ones.

First, the three friends  went to the Great Wall of China.Peter and Simon had to  carrry them  up to the Wall as their tiny physiques weren’t really made for climbing mountains. Tne MG  team laughed and joked all the way.  Ken made jokes about the wall being  built to keep the rabbits out. Scary ….. so the three of them hid in Ken’s backpack. They just hate heights you know. They were very surprised that it was so rugged, steep and such a long way up. When they peeped out, and  looked down from the wall they realised there would be no tasty morsels in that area. Certainly no kiddies or any fury friends to muck about with. The terrain was pretty mountainous and wind swept and  it was obvious that the Wall  would keep more than the Mongols out.

Then they headed into to Beijing and hung about the big square. They saw lots of folk in uniform and Chairman Mao’s portrait at the entrance to the Forbidden City. But you know there were very  few  kids about. The one or two little ones they spied were always surrounded by old folk and had little chance to escape and engage in play. And they were mainly dressed in design look -a -like labels. Right down to the yellow framed sunglasses and Gucci travel cases. They couldn’t play in the pond or hide in the vegie patch  in that gear.

Anyway tonight at Bengbu, the irrepressible Benjamin Bunny snuck out of the hotel looking for some tasty food to bring back to Mr Jeremy Fisher to brighten up his day. He had lots of fun whipping in and out of restaurants and the side walk stalls. He was particularly impressed with the  freshly cooked yabbies, snails and the delicious range of vegies for the hot pot. Jeremy couldn’t help but enjoy the “take in” BB brought back so hopefully things are looking up for Jeremy as he starts to fatten up those long, spindly legs.

WE ARE ON THE ROAD

It is 11pm and we have just completed 450 kms drive from Tianjin to Qufu: the birthplace  of Confucius. Another “experience plus day” which started at 8:30am sitting in the car park at Registration Bureau. Our sixth visit to gain our registration plates and documentation. We were promised we’d get them at 8:30 am sharp but we “wised up” and took  thermos of tea and refreshments. The scene looked a bit like a car boot luncheon at the races. We sat patiently in the car park until 3:10pm when the laminated plates and stickers for the cars materialised. There had been loads of workshopping about what was going on. The reason for the seven hour delay was that the computer system failed again and the documentation and numbers on the first set of certificates was incorrect and had to be changed. A day’s work.

Enough of that. We then “hot footed” it out of Tianjin. Once on the road our mild mannered mechanic Dan was repeatedly heard saying across the CB radio ”let it out Queenie these cars can go faster that that”. With this direction Queenie and Mr Lui then took off with the three cars keeping pace with them. On three extended occasions Ken and I lost sight of these skilful rally drivers cars   and putted along on the dark and rainy expressway doing between 90 and 100 kms. I certainly earnt my keep as a navigator as we weaved in and out between poorly lit trucks many of which had enormous loads which were scantily tied down.  Not particularly enjoyable travel, no lunch, no dinner just chips, snickers and biscuits, but Dan will be pleased that the cars performed well.

THE PLANS FOR THE TEAM…but everything is flexible

As a result of the five  delay in completing all the paperwork, the MGBGT drivers, spent part of Saturday, with Queenie, our guide planning an abridged   route in order to adhere to  our schedule and  meet up with Madeleine, then Macca and  to get to the border by the due date.

On Sunday night the whole team considered all options.  If Queensland cars are released by next Friday, Denise and Ian plan to truck their car to Xian in order to meet up with us. They have to truck the car as they do not have the permits to travel on the shortest possible route from Tianjin to Xian. We are informed it takes one month to get travel permits from the central government so it is impossible to change the route for the cars.

Dave’s preferred option is to drive to Naihui so that his car starts from the MG factory. He would  have his own guide and she would  be  driving with him in  an open top MGA. Dave says he is happy to buy her a beanie and rain gear. Dave is determined, if at all possible   to drive from MG factory in China to the  MG factory in England.  Fingers crossed the cars will be released ASAP so he can complete the drive to Naihui and  meet up with us in Xian.

In order to drive here you must apply for permits to travel in each province and you must report to provincial authorities along the way. This system doesn’t seem to allow for any  flexibility in terms of taking short cuts. The mandatory guide ensures that we travel the approved route.

During  our enforced  lay weekend we travelled into Beijing on the very fast train. Three hundred and thirty six kilometres per hour meant we were in Beijing in 29 minutes. Absolutely fantastic. You have to marvel at a system that can transport millions of people and is impeccably efficient, clean, and prompt and state of the art. We visited the recently completed National Centre for the Performing Arts. A dome shaped building constructed in titanium, like the Guggenheim at Bilbao.  The interior was spectacular. Stone, marble of every colour and hue and the slatted timber ceiling highlighted a range of beautiful wood. The external moat formed an internal ceiling at the underground entrance. Stunning.

Like the shoes?

You can always tell a real, edgy international city by the way dogs fit into daily life. The dogs of New York, Tokyo and Buenos Aires are almost interchangeable with their high fashion studded collars, YSL leaches and dyed tails; and their sense of absolute entitlement as they strut the pavements.

What is it about dog owners, the world over that wherever you go, there’s a commonality which makes them feel safe and understood even if they don’t speak the language. The first point of contact rests with the dog. If it is sociable and friendly you can build a network of new friends but if it is testy keep walking.

It is no different here. I meet one such s mutt in downtown Tianjin outside the local garage. She was a schnauzer, I think. Pink dyed tail and wearing pink and white shoes on very paw but the irony was her proud owner would not allow her out of his arms. Both the dog and owner relished the attention with all parties smiling for the camera.

An evening walk around the National Centre for the Performing Arts saw the locals out for their nightly. The owners talk while the dogs sniff and define their territory. These city dogs are a world away from our mutts, Amiga and Chilla whose daily ritual is to chase sea gulls in the shallows at the beach. But I must say I am looking for a trendy leash!

The day started with fond farewells from Dave, Ian and Denise as we were expected to start the REAL drive. All going well they would possibly catch us up with us in Xian in about ten days. Particularly sad for Dave as he was so looking forward to going to the MG Factory at Naihui, as we had planned on Monday.

But little did we know that we wont make it to Naihui on Monday either.

Our first stop was back to the Transport Registration Bureau to pick up our plates and insurance documentation. Just a quick pick up one would think.  We arrived at 8:30 am and the officials started to take photographs of the cars, inside and out and to match the numbers on the car with our documentation. Things were stalled for a period.  One problem they were trying to solve was that one car was in another driver’s name and one car’s registration showed the previous owners name. They requested passports for these non present people. So it took a bit of talking to explain the Australian registration practices. All obstacles appeared to be overcome and at   12:30 pm we left with an instruction to return at 3 pm for the insurance number and the final processing which would be completed by 5 pm. We intended to drive a 100kms.

On the way back to the hotel, Ken’s car cut out losing all power. Breakdown number two. Again the four MGs pulled up on the side of the road and were surrounded by on lookers. Mary and Reg sat in their car and a  car pulled up alongside them. The woman in the passenger’s seat tried to engage Mary in a conversation. As she was pressing forward into Mary’s car her hand was working frantically to grab stuff from the back pack behind Mary’s seat. Reg and Mary, alert but not alarmed, made the appropriate noises and the car took off.

Our car was towed away and taken to a local garage with Dan and Ken trying to figure out the source of the problem. For the sum of three dollars it was established that the alternator wire was loose and once this was reconnected the car was fine.

Back to theTransport Registration Bureau for our fifth visit.  Again four MGBGTs packed in the car park and continued to draw a crowd and even some tempting offers. Exchanging a MGBGT for BMW 730 seemed a pretty good deal to me.

The clock ticked on and at 4:30 pm it was suggested that we go into the office as a group to stand at the counter. We did this and then took our seats and continued to wait patiently. A number of officials discussed our plight but to no avail. At 5:15 pm we were told that the computer system had failed and we would have to return on Monday.

We sat in our cars in the car park while some phones calls were made but with little success.

Effectively we spent most of the day in the car park. During this time Peter negotiated withe locals to have a new fan belt made. Took lots of charm, gestures and body language to support the communication. At 4:30 pm the new fan belt was delivered to the car park but alas it was too wide.

We are now four days behind schedule and will have to cut out some part of the journey. We have two days of down time in Tiajin and hope that on Monday we will be on the road. We will spend Saturday going over the cars, yet again with a fine tooth comb and on Sunday we”ll take the fast train into to Beijing. 

 I’m not making any predictions about ANYTHING at this stage, but it is all part of the unfolding adventure!

Tiga's fan belt has gone!

Road worthy?

We can drive at last!

Today things started to fall into place. First Queenie presented to the Transport Bureau and we now have our Chinese driving permits, for a limited period, but at least we are legal. It was a celebration because the previous evening there was some concern that we might not get the paperwork before we took possession of our cars. A bit of a risk to be driving without a permit we thought.

On the way out to the port Dave, our MG tragic, spied a new MG6 driving along the expressway. Once the traffic came to a stop Dave jumped out of the mini bus, raced to up to the MG6 driver’s window and presented him with his hat emblazoned with the logo MG Beijing to London along the Silk Road. The driver gratefully accepted the gift, relieved it wasn’t a fit of road rage, and on we travelled.

 Next stop was the import depot at Tianjin port where we were very relieved to see our cars all intact and nicely lined up: red, white, yellow and blue. We took possession of our vehicles and commenced the fifty kilometre drive back to the transport registration department for our third visit in three days.  At 8 am tomorrow we have our fourth visit to collect our plates.  Patience and persistence being the name of the game.

First breakdown occurred some thirty five kilometers in when Kerith and Peter’s car pulled to the side of the expressway as the fan belt had disintegrated. This saw four MGBGTs lined up along the run off on the expressway. Quite a stir, as cars slowed down to look at the running repairs, some even stopped, observed proceedings. Two guys hopped into our car, and of their own accord I might add, took turns to take each other’s photo in the driver’s seat. Then to seal the event they took photos with Simon and I in the shot. Just one long smile! 

Getting a Chinese roadworthy was a four hour process. Each car was checked for brakes, light strength, and exhaust emission and general safety. The vehicle assessors were extremely helpful as they repeated a number of tests to ensure the cars met Chinese standards. On our car Ken had fitted headlight protectors and this obviously defused the strength of the light so they asked him to remove the protectors, ran a second test and then when the standard had been meet told him he could refit the protectors. Very obliging.

The whole day has been driving  a cavalcade event; cars slow down, toot, lots of waves and smiles. When we stop we are surrounded by on lookers. The biggest drawcard is Kerith and Peter’s “Tiga”, the 1977 yellow rubber nose with the black strip……very fitting in the year of the tiger!

Driving is interesting as Ken, Simon, Peter and Reg have already adopted the Chinese practice of edging the car into whatever direction you want to manoeuvre to, tooting the horn and going for it.

On the way back to the hotel at the end of the day we were driving in convoy and would you believe it Simon and Ken lost sight of Peter and Reg. This resulted in stopping, again on the side of the expressway, making some phone calls which established both lots of cars were a little off course but then fortuitously a gentleman driving a Peugeot stopped, jumped out of his car to photograph our cars and as quick as a flash Ken pulled out the card with the hotel’s address and this kind soul motioned for us to follow him and  he delivered us to the hotel door

Our guide Queenie

The arrangements all seemed so straightforward on paper but like life this exercise has more twists and turns than you could imagine…….here’s a bit of the twisting and it is only a tenth of the story.

The two Queensland cars have arrived but won’t be released and cleared for approximately a week. This means that the group has to break into two convoys with each convoy having a mandatory guide. As the travel company could not provide an additional car for the second group Dan,   our mechanic has agreed to drive with Simon who has a vacant seat because Madeleine is still in England due to the current flight restrictions. This reconfiguration provides a seat for the second guide who will drive in Dave’s car once they are on the road.

Once Madeleine arrives, Dan will either wait for Dave or drive with the first convoy guide until the second convoy catch us and we are reunited and only require one guide.

Are you confused…..you are not alone in that!

The four Victorian cars were processed by customs yesterday and apparently everything was pulled out of the cars and checked. Our guide Queenie spent the entire day on the phone liaising with staff who were working to move the cars out of the containers, informing them how they could start each car. So our trip to Simata, at the Great Wall was spiced with constant calls about the intricacies of starting the red, yellow, blue and white car. This communication involved Peter, Ken, Reg and Simon doing rough sketches for Queenie explaining to her where the starter buttons and batteries were located. She then translated the information by phone back to the port.

 So as we understand, and understand being the operative word, tomorrow we go back to collect our driver’s licences, then take the cars from the port to the vehicle registration office to get plates and other documentation required for this road trip. Here’s hoping!

Peking duck for dinner.......oh no!

You know how Mr Jeremy Fisher signed on for this adventure because he was sick of eating roast grasshoppers and punting on the pond to catch minnows for dinner; we’ll guess what, we have touched down in Beijing and Jeremy was out and about jumping along. Much to his consternation and dismay all he saw on offer on   the tiny side walk food carts was roasted insects. Grasshoppers and a variety of insects including something that reminded him of a wasp. These tasty morsels were cooked on an open grill and threaded on skewers so the locals and the tourists could have a quick munch or new food experience as they wandered through the back streets of beautiful Beijing.

 Imagine his horror when all he wanted to experience was some culinary delights unlike his normal diet and with the sole intention of fattening up his spindly frog’s legs.

 Then that young, devil Benjamin Bunny taunts”hey Jeremy you better watch out because juicy frogs legs are a delicacy in France and that’s we’re heading” Croak, croak! That horrible, deep, pit tummy sensation hit Jeremy like a log on the pond.

Then things get even worse. The team headed out to a restaurant and ate Peking duck. Benjamin, Peter and Jeremy were horrified as the chef carved up the duck and served it with a fine pancake and tasty sauce. They were thankful that their dear friend Jemima Puddle duck wasn’t with them to witness this carnage.

Poor Mr Jeremy Fisher is wracked with second thoughts about the merits of joining this adventure. And even cocky little Benjamin Bunny is losing his nerve after Jeremy told him tasty bunnies sometimes end up in a cassoulet in the Loire valley.

 What can we do to restore Mr Jeremy Fisher’s confidence and quite dignity and Benjamin’s feisty spirit?

Jeremy, Peter and Benjamin out and about in BeijingThank goodness Jemima's not here!